The bengt paris event is currently being held.
Tomorrow, Sunday the 27th, is the last day.
And for me, a long-awaited arrival.
Araki Yuu.
This year's delivery will include the two items I'm introducing today, and around December, a 4B jerkin jacket and knickerbockers made from the same fabric.
First, let me introduce the fabric.
The fabric blend is 52% linen and 48% wool.
The linen is brown, and the wool is black, with both working together to create a dark brown coloring.
The fabric has relatively wide stripes.
As you can see, these stripes are not created by changing colors, but by a change in the weaving structure.
And within the stripes themselves, there's a diamond-like pattern at regular intervals.
For those familiar with Araki Yuu, you might feel a sense of commonality with their previous work. It's a fabric with an old-world mood, woven on a dobby loom to express a slightly ambiguous woven pattern without being overly intricate.
There's a similar loom called a jacquard loom, but with that, the patterns become too fine and graphic. So, Araki Yuu uses dobby looms to create the brand's unique textiles.
Also, this fabric is woven in a "border" pattern at the fabric stage.
Therefore, at the fabric stage, the warp threads are wool (black) and the weft threads are linen (brown), but when constructing the garment, it is used horizontally.
Thus, the finished garment has linen (brown) as the warp and wool (black) as the weft.
I think this is quite important, and it affects how the garment's form is expressed. Especially with the top, there's a detail where this is a key point.
The fabric has a very unique dry touch, with a strong old-world feel and luxuriousness. It's dry, yet you can definitely feel the quality of the material and fabric.
I'll introduce those two garments now.
Araki Yuu
Atelier Tops
material _ LINEN 52%,WOOL 48%
color _ DARK BROWN
button _ BRASS BUTTON
size _ 0,1,2
※Sizes 0 and 1 are sold out.
Araki Yuu
Atelier Pants
material _ LINEN 52%,WOOL 48%
color _ DARK BROWN
button _ BLACK BRASS
size _ 0,1,2
※Sold out
These two.
While it's not a brand where new styles constantly appear, the Atelier Tops are a new design.
The Atelier Pants are also a recent addition, but they were previously called "New Classic Pants."
With the introduction of the Atelier Tops, both the pants and tops are now named "Atelier."
I'll introduce them in order.
"Atelier Tops."
The Atelier Tops are a pullover style with four pockets on the front.
This is a garment unique to Araki Yuu, where the designer himself produces all the clothes in his atelier. It incorporates details that Araki Yuu himself deemed necessary during his work in the atelier.
Normally, I hardly ever handled "pullover" type clothing at CASANOVA&CO.
Excluding high-neck pullovers or those with buttons up to the chest or stomach, I hadn't really been drawn to or stocked this kind of crew-neck style.
But this one, "my instincts were screaming."
I felt an shocking coolness, and it incorporated details and sewing specifications that deeply impressed me. This "Atelier Tops."
Crew-neck pullovers tend to look cute, which isn't really my thing, but this one existed in a different world.
So, I ordered it exactly as the existing sample.
This impact.
Please experience it for yourselves.
Having said that, even though I ordered a full size run, there aren't many quantities. Lol.
Seriously, it's so meticulously crafted, it's a precious piece of clothing. Araki Yuu.
A round-neck pullover.
The edge of the neck is piped with 100% cotton shirting fabric.
The front body of the Atelier Tops is composed of one panel on each side, utilizing the seam to form a neck slit.
And the neck closure is made with an original brass part produced by the brand.
As mentioned above, the neck opening is formed by utilizing the body's seams.
The opening is reinforced with hand-stitched bar tacks.
But please take a close look at the fabric edge that's exposed on the surface.
This is amazing.
You can see that the fabric edge is black.
This means that the weft wool is visible.
In other words, the brown linen warp threads are "pulled out" evenly from both the left and right fabric edges, so that the black wool threads are at the edge.
It's not a simple raw edge, but a raw edge with warp threads removed.
This probably prevents the threads from excessively fraying at the front.
Also, the neckline is piped with 100% black cotton.
The fabric edges are unified in the same black shade, but treated with different specifications.
This highlights the structure of the Atelier Tops and brings out the contours of its details.
Precisely because it's a pullover, the "difference in garment quality" arises from its very structure.
The buttons are fastened with original brass parts.
I'd seen small brass buttons before, but this is the first time I've seen brass parts used to secure buttons.
This is something I was looking forward to because it was on Araki Yuu's Instagram story.
And it's hand-stitched.
The shoulders are raw-cut to reduce the bulk of the seam allowance between the body and sleeves.
Unlike the front, here the raw-cut threads are fraying.
And look at this.
"Neck piping," "front and back body seams," "armholes."
These three areas show two rows of stitching from the outside, but the width of the two stitch rows differs in each area.
Do you understand?
The stitching interval of the armhole and the front/back body transition lines also differs.
The fact that the spacing of the two lines of stitching varies depending on the location might seem trivial, but it's not trivial at all.
This is another area where differences in clothing emerge.
Specifications that are difficult to achieve in factory production.
Also, the raw-cut armholes are not just for a certain aesthetic; they are not just raw cuts.
They are designed to reduce the thickness of the seam allowance to make the outline of Araki Yuu's clothing look clean.
If efficiency were prioritized, the sewing points for joining would naturally have the same specifications, but that's not the case with Araki Yuu.
While it's currently not widely available, the level of clothing you can see within the limited distribution is, in my opinion, truly impressive, no matter how you look at it.
The distinctive pocket detail of the Atelier Tops.
I believe Araki, from Araki Yuu, designed this to hold sewing tools in the front pockets while working in the atelier, but even for those of us who don't work in an atelier, this is a very useful feature for everyday use.
Fabric is applied to the body, divided into four sections with machine stitching and hand-stitched silk bartacks.
And what's more, this pocket.
What's amazing is the inside.
With external patch pockets like this, normally the threads from the folded fabric edge on the inside would fray and come apart inside the pocket, wouldn't they?
But Araki Yuu is different.
Neither the inside nor the outside shows any fabric edge of the pocket anywhere you look.
So, the pocket itself won't fall apart, and there's no annoyance of lint accumulating inside the pocket.
Normally, you'd fold it in half and attach the pocket externally, but Araki Yuu carefully irons it into a triple fold and stitches it on.
Well, I didn't take a picture of the inside of the pocket.
This "consideration" for the owner.
Please see it in person.
By the way, the bottom of the pocket looks like this.
Not only is there no exposed fabric edge, but it's also gusseted so things can be properly placed inside.
Back.
It features a large box pleat designed for ease of taking on and off and for comfortable wearing, but...
The crispness of the fabric makes this box pleat incredibly stylish.
"Too beautiful box pleats" that are softly yet clearly and symmetrically arranged.
This is because the ironing and sewing processes during production are carried out with great care.
Mass-produced clothing made quickly will not have such symmetrical pleats.
In fact, some intricate garments are intentionally designed to be asymmetrical.
However, most clothes in the world are made by creating one half and then simply mirroring it.
Despite this, many mass-produced garments often end up asymmetrical due to discrepancies during production.
Indeed, when you look at something meticulously crafted over time by a skilled artisan, the finished product is utterly different.
I feel that Araki Yuu's clothes represent the pinnacle of Japanese craftsmanship.
That's why you can gain so much from holding and wearing such garments.
I believe that is the "power of clothing."
The cuffs are blouson cuffs.
And then, this hem.
This Atelier Tops, from a garment construction perspective, was an unbelievably impressive point.
From the moment I saw the sample, it incorporated details that had been vividly imprinted in my mind.
The Atelier Tops are a garment that emphasizes functional details, like a uniform, when worn with Araki Yuu's designs.
Araki Yuu doesn't just blindly announce "new products," but creates garments that "have a reason to be made."
Therefore, as you can see, the sides of the hem are designed to be significantly and diagonally open compared to typical tops, to allow easy access to pants pockets.
It looks like this from behind, too.
The side seams of the hem open diagonally straight, and the hem itself is straight.
I was so impressed because I had never seen this particular specification to achieve it.
This is what it looks like from the inside.
Do you understand?
"The folded-back edge on the inside of the hem side."
Its width changes in accordance with the side opening, and when it meets the hem, it forms a mitered corner.
With a regular shirt like this, the width of the folded-back edge for the lining treatment is uniform.
However, to achieve the desired garment shape, this specific detail has been created, unlike anything seen in other garments.
Physically, the ironing process before sewing becomes complex, so it should be almost impossible for efficiency-driven factory production.
But you know, this detail made me feel something deeply.
It was that, until now, many of Araki Yuu's shirt hems were raw-cut, and in such cases, a "facing fabric" of the same material as the outer fabric was stitched on to match the hem's shape.
Even when it wasn't raw-cut, the hem allowance was "standard width," just like a normal shirt.
However, this detail is a specification I've never seen before, neither from other brands nor within Araki Yuu's own work.
What I mean to say is that in modern times, with rising prices and various other influences, it seems that details in clothing that are thought to be "unseen by anyone" are no longer updated at all.
Therefore, I believe that most clothes in the world are made with only familiar specifications.
But Araki Yuu is different.
I once vaguely heard that "Araki-san is constantly striving to improve his clothing-making techniques."
He's diligently dedicated to his work, continuously improving his own skills while already producing Araki Yuu collections, which are inherently complex and time-consuming.
How many people in this world make clothes like that?
Generally, it might be considered an "unseen detail," but it's a detail I've never encountered before, and a single piece of clothing is a collection of such details.
Sewing techniques honed by himself, and the specifications that emerged from them.
I am deeply drawn to this kind of craftsmanship, and I believe that such clothing has the power to move people's hearts.
That's why I'm always so impressed by Araki Yuu's clothes when I examine every detail, and I truly want those who can see and own them to experience and understand them.
Even though it doesn't arrive immediately after ordering, looking at the Araki Yuu clothes I receive makes me deeply reflect on my own approach to work.
Clothing of this caliber isn't just something to wear; I believe it has a profound effect on the hearts of those who see and wear it.
Well, I've written a lot, but because not everyone can continue this kind of craftsmanship, I want people to know about artisans like Araki Yuu who continue to do so.
And ultimately, the finished clothes are just so cool, it's almost divine. Araki Yuu.
Oh, right.
Speaking of "divine series," MOTHER HAND artisan will be making an appearance soon.
Please look forward to it. Lol.
And the back.
Back.
back.
URA.
The reverse side.
No, it's already a "first-class front".
The finishing on the reverse side is too beautiful.
The reverse side of the shoulder.
The reverse side of the armhole.
The armhole on the front was sewn with a raw edge.
The back looks like this.
Moreover, the stitch width from the fabric edge is narrower than that of mass-produced clothing, and the sewing is very beautiful and superb.
As mentioned earlier, the reverse side of the hem is also perfect.
How many other garments boast such precision and coolness?
I hope both those who already own Araki Yuu clothing and those who don't will experience the further refined Araki Yuu clothing.
And one more thing.
"Atelier Pants".
The fabric is the same as before.
Straight pants with no front pleats and a slightly relaxed fit around the thighs.
At first glance, they seem simple, but this is Araki Yuu, after all.
They are very well made.
Here's the side view.
First, the distinctive feature is the waistband.
The width changes from the front to the back, and the back rises sharply.
I understand the back being higher, but I've never seen a design where the waistband width changes except for Araki Yuu.
I think it's probably a structure to improve the waist fitting.
The back.
The aforementioned waistband is not a continuous piece; at the center back, there's a gusset that allows for a very neat fit when the waist is adjusted with the cinch-back.
The structure of this gusset also has an unusual shape that is not normally seen.
It's expertly sewn with a unique curved gusset on both sides, in the already highly rounded hip area.
The reverse side is also incredibly beautiful, so I'll post a photo later.
And here's the state with the cinch-back adjusted at the waist.
The fabric piece provided as a gusset folds neatly without resistance.
This waist adjustment has a considerable range, so even for someone with a very slender waist, adjusting it with the cinch-back will make the waist fit perfectly, allowing for a very comfortable wear.
Even for those who are slender and struggle to find pants with a small enough waist, size 0 will be fine.
Being 167cm tall and weighing 52kg, I can wear these pants without a belt, and this wide range of adjustability is a significant feature of these Atelier Pants.
By the way, it's the usual needle cinch.
This time, it's black-painted brass.
The back of the Atelier Pants is spectacular.
As mentioned earlier, the back pocket is where the improved level of Araki Yuu's garment sewing is visibly evident.
A curved flap pocket with no visible stitching on the outside.
It's very clear when the flap is tucked inside.
I don't know any other brands besides Araki Yuu that do this.
"Nankin Tamabuchi" (piped pocket with triangular corners)
Nowadays, even double-piped or single-piped pocket openings are often omitted or formed with alternative methods due to the time and effort involved.
However, Araki Yuu continues to make them with the "most challenging piped edge specification".
As you can see in the photo, the ends of the pocket opening are triangular. This method involves carefully folding the upper and lower piping fabrics inward by hand, using an iron, to form the shape.
And to reinforce it, a hand-stitched bar tack.
This is an old tailoring technique that has almost disappeared in modern times, but it is meticulously created one by one.
Moreover, the Atelier Pants feature a "Nankin Tamabuchi + flap pocket" specification.
Even with Araki Yuu, it was only about 3 or 4 years ago that they started incorporating Nankin Tamabuchi into their clothes; before that, they were made with regular double-piped specifications.
In other words, as mentioned in the Atelier Tops, the level of Araki Yuu's clothing is improving.
If the number of products distributed is not large, normally,
"Increase productivity = simplify and distribute in quantity"
I think this is the common business mindset in Japan.
However, Araki Yuu has not chosen the "numbers game" of shifting to factory production, simplifying specifications, and increasing production.
Everything is made with the wearer of Araki Yuu's clothing in mind.
I have some anecdotes that I can't write about in this blog, but when I heard them, I felt like, "No way."
I think every single piece of Araki Yuu's clothing in the world is amazing.
As I write this blog, I recall something Inamori, the founder of Kyocera, always told his employees when he founded Kyocera:
"Develop something so sharp it could cut your hand."
I don't know how many people will understand this, but when I look at Araki Yuu's clothes, I often recall those words from Inamori's book.
The back body is packed with extremely complex techniques.
The front opens with black-coated brass buttons.
The buttonholes are also hand-stitched.
Since the Atelier Pants have a deep rise, the button spacing is wider.
Now, let's get a closer look at this.
This.
Do you understand?
The ultra-beautiful fly facing.
Not only are there hand-stitched buttonholes, but also the neatly folded corners of the waistband facing.
In addition, the fly facing is set back by 1mm, with an amazingly straight edge stitching.
And the piping on the edge of the fly and the unwavering precision of its stitching.
Seriously, it's so beautiful that even when wearing them, you'd want to keep them unbuttoned just to admire it.
So, the reverse side.
Araki Yuu unusually uses a stylish blue striped lining.
It's a lining only on the front body side.
The material is 100% cupro.
The reverse side of the back body.
No matter where you look, the craftsmanship is so immaculately beautiful it sends shivers down your spine.
By the way, because many seam allowances overlap, even a spot like this was hand-stitched.
Do you understand?
The internal structure looks like this.
By the way, these Atelier Pants.
They also have a gusset in the crotch, and the piping treatment on the reverse side is also incredibly impressive.
Look at this.
Can you see it in the photo? I wonder.
The lines that form the Atelier Pants intersect at an incredibly high level.
Also, this kind of detail is something other brands probably can't achieve at this level.
Since there are many layers of fabric, and stitching distortion is very likely to occur, this area from around the outside seam pocket to the leg opening is incredibly straight.
It's sewn incredibly straight.
I believe it's impossible to achieve this level without extreme care when sewing this part.
This is what even such a difficult section looks like.
Amazing.
Looking at this, I endlessly wonder how much time goes into making one piece.
Even the hem on the inside is piped.
However, it's not hand-stitched; the hem is machine-stitched.
This is a very unusual specification, piping despite that method.
Wearing it.
I'm 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, and both the Atelier Tops and Atelier Pants are size 0.
In the photos, it looks a bit burgundy, but in reality, it's a bit more brownish.
Functional pockets.
Well, that's pretty much what the photos look like when worn.
"Atelier Series" is packed with Araki Yuu's craftsmanship.
If you're a fan, please take a look.