Hello.
I'm Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
This is a daily update, and today I'm also talking about SARTO.
Today, with the event starting the day after tomorrow, everything that was supposed to arrive at the store has finally arrived.
No more should be arriving. lol
If my count is correct, the total is 149 items.
So close. lol
However, I don't think there will be another opportunity to enjoy such a lineup from a single brand, neither before nor after this.
I hope you're looking forward to it.
And today, as mentioned in yesterday's blog, there are three items.
Suede leather pants, a hand-loomed tweed blouson, and a reversible jacket.
All of these are items that will be available from SARTO in this 25AW season, but to have so many super power pieces developed in a single collection from one brand is, frankly, abnormal.
And each is in a completely different category.
Furthermore, there are still hand-knits and other items that we won't be able to introduce at our store this time.
I've talked about it many times with the staff and customers at the store, but to my knowledge, it was overwhelmingly the No. 1 collection.
After that exhibition, I had dinner with the SARTO team at a restaurant in Sangenjaya, and my head was already spinning. lol
It was a collection that left such an impact.
And today's three styles are the TOP3 from that collection.
I don't intend to rank them, but the craftsmanship and presence are just exceptional.
Today, please allow me to introduce each one in a little more detail.
SARTO - andante - No.13
SARTO
SUEDE SEMI-FLARE PANTS
material _ LAMB LEATHER
size _ M
color _ BLACK
First, these leather pants.
As mentioned, the suede side is used on the outside.
Lining is attached from the waist to the thighs, and from the knees down, the grain side of the leather touches the skin.
This cannot be conveyed through words alone, so you'll just have to see it in person, but the feeling of the grain side of this lamb leather touching the skin is a completely different world from any leather pants before it.
First, about the leather.
It uses Entrefino lamb from Spain.
Entrefino is like the highest grade of lamb, fine-grained and supple.
That Entrefino is used with "almost" no skiving.
"Almost" means that I was told at the exhibition half a year ago that the sample I saw was unskived.
However, SARTO determined that the lamb leather they secured for production this time was thicker than the raw hide at the exhibition, and using it as-is would lead to stiffness in the seams and discomfort.
So, for this production, they are skiving it by about 0.2 to 0.3 mm to adjust the thickness to the optimal point.
I was very impressed by this aspect as well, but if they had been fixated on the "unskived leather pants" packaging, they wouldn't have been able to make such thickness adjustments.
Based on Mr. Toyoshima and Mr. Ikeda's vast experience and their foresight into "what it will be like as a finished product," I felt that SARTO is very honest in its craftsmanship regarding the points they cannot compromise on.
I think this kind of thing is difficult, even though it seems obvious.
In an era where catchy things are celebrated, they maintain focus on the essence.
It's very educational.
You can probably imagine the thickness of these pants from the part where two layers of leather overlap at the waistband.
Although it's hard to tell from the hanging state, it has a semi-flare silhouette similar to the black denim of PANTS TYPE 001, which I introduced in No. 3.
Unlike denim, these leather pants have a seam at the knee.
I think this is both to create a non-straight shape and to account for the efficiency of leather usage.
It's a very fine-grained suede.
Here it is being worn.
What impressed me most about these leather pants was when I put them on.
When you wear leather pants, both the look and the feel tend to strongly emphasize that you're "wearing leather."
It's obvious, but styling becomes stiff, and the disadvantages in terms of comfort are unavoidable.
However, SARTO's leather pants can be styled alongside other casual pants or slacks in your closet, and I think they will be within reach in your everyday wardrobe.
As mentioned earlier, even though the leather itself is quite thick, it doesn't have the heavy feeling of thick leather pants.
There are leather pants in the world that are skived so thin they drape, but SARTO overcame the drawbacks of leather pants by using exquisite Entrefino in its "most leather-like state," an approach completely different from such thin skiving.
I felt the same way with WONDER ROOM's WHALE; when I see quality that directly challenges and dominates, I can't ignore it.
Isn't the way these wrinkles form around the back of the knee amazing?
You can instantly understand the thickness and suppleness of the leather.
Neither thinly skived leather nor generally thick leather can achieve this supple, springy feel.
The silhouette when worn is also so elegant that it's hard to believe they're leather pants.
However, to achieve this mood, the leather cannot be rough, right?
I don't think this level of perfection can be achieved without comprehensively controlling the manufacturing process, including how the leather is finished.
They will only be available in one size, but I hope you can view them not as leather pants, but as an outstanding pair of pants within the framework of your everyday wear.
Next, tweed.
SARTO - andante - No.14
SARTO
TWEED ZIP JACKET
material _ silk 37%,cotton 32%,wool 20%,acrylic 8%,nylon 3%
size _ M
color _ MULTI
This is clearly a power piece.
It's such a power piece that words are hardly necessary.
SARTO's 25AW season is based on black, and they originally intended to create a collection with nothing but black, but amidst that, this tweed stands out strikingly.
Homespun made with 5 types of yarn.
SARTO's homespun is not a rough, stiff fabric like Harris Tweed, which is a common image for tweed, but rather a loose and uneven weave that is closer to knitwear.
It's hard to see in the close-up photos of the fabric, but they apparently apply a interlining to the back of the coarse homespun tweed so that it can be tailored into a garment.
However, rather than a stiff interlining being directly applied, it feels more like there's a functional batting of wadding, resulting in a fluffy state that doesn't kill the texture of the loose-knit tweed, leaving room for its expression.
As seen in the previous photo, the buttons on the pockets and cuffs are concho buttons, with onyx in the center.
The zipper is a gold-colored TALON.
The facing is made from denim fabric used in the collection, with added processing.
Incredibly clean finishing.
The lining is a faded purple.
The collar lining, cinch-back, pocket openings, and, although I didn't take a picture, the inside of the pocket flaps are also leather.
And this fabric.
I've briefly introduced the details of various parts, but the amount of information is overwhelming, isn't it? lol
A multi-colored hand-loomed tweed all over, with a dull old-lady purple lining, bleached denim around it, leather in various places, concho buttons, and a gold-colored zipper.
Even though so much has been done, it looks crazy, yet somehow it all comes together beautifully.
SARTO magic.
There's nothing else to call it but talent.
In fashion and design, the term "addition and subtraction" is often used, but this is, so to speak, a singularity reached after repeatedly adding, adding, adding...
It's a rare case where, having surpassed the singularity of "too much information, I don't know what's what," it has been fully added, and yet it has a coherent and distinctive feel.
However, I don't think this can be done intentionally with normal sensibilities.
Why is that possible?
That's because,
it's SARTO that can do it.
There's nothing else to say.
That's why they can create the contradiction of an "unpretentious power piece."
When you wear it, it certainly has an extraordinary power.
However, it's not a mismatched power; I believe there's an order to it.
The denim facing peeking out from the neckline, the silver and onyx concho, and the gold zipper—you might have thought, "You're using that there!?"—but somehow it all achieves a comfortable balance.
The lining is 100% cupro.
By now, you're probably starting to think, "It might have been too bold if the lining was a safe black, wouldn't it?" lol
This sense of balance is truly amazing, and this sensibility is what makes SARTO unique.
The shape is also excellent, of course.
While not as much as a reversible coat, the arm swing is also bold.
Fabric full of craftsmanship, impeccable accessories and specifications.
Supporting it is an elegant and beautiful pattern, pregnant with classicism.
And an outstanding sense of style that brings them all together.
It's a garment that encapsulates SARTO's character in clothing making and symbolizes this season.
And finally, the reversible jacket.
SARTO - andante - No.15
SARTO
JACKET
material _ wool 99%,polyurethane 1%
size _ S,M,L
color _ CHARCOAL
Here's the last one.
A reversible tailored jacket.
This is the item that impressed me the most at the exhibition half a year ago, and I decided to order it, including one for myself, right there and then.
I thought this jacket would amaze people, so I was really looking forward to wearing it myself and introducing it to customers.
...However, a problem was discovered around summer.
Production with the originally planned fabric became impossible.
I was really looking forward to it, along with the suede leather pants and hand-loomed tweed blouson mentioned earlier, and I had ordered it believing that these two items would shine because of this reversible jacket. So, the worst-case scenario of dropping it was honestly quite distressing.
However, despite most other stores having few orders, the SARTO team quickly searched for another fabric, and the fabric for the current product was decided upon.
That was in late August.
From there, reversible sewing.
Even with limited time, it's an extremely time-consuming process that involves splitting the fabric and hand-stitching it.
The SARTO team told me, "We'll have it ready by the event!", but I was a little uneasy inside.
Thank you very much for delivering on your promise and making it in time.
Thanks to you, we can introduce to everyone an item that can be called the main act of the event.
As mentioned earlier, a tailored jacket with reverse sewing.
Tailored jackets have lapels, so the face of the double-faced fabric is bonded along the roll line of the lapel, ensuring the fabric's face is also visible on the lapel.
Like this.
It's a subtle detail, but one that values the mood of tailoring.
And the chest pocket bag has a gusset.
This keeps the pocket from bulging awkwardly when something is put in it, making it very smart.
All pockets accessible from the outside when worn have this specification.
Leather reinforcements are added to both ends of the bust darts.
And what I want you to pay attention to is the amount of fabric taken in by the darts.
The darts are quite daringly placed.
This point is very important when you look at the silhouette when worn, so please keep it in mind.
The leather patch part I mentioned earlier.
It looks like this from the front.
Back shot.
You can gradually see the unusual form of this tailored jacket.
The cuffs are in a "praying hands" configuration.
This also contributes to the unique form of this jacket.
When worn, the unusual form reveals itself.
The arms curve outwards significantly, in inverse proportion to the well-shaped bust.
I was completely captivated by it during a brief fitting at the exhibition.
A respect for and rebellion against tailored jackets as a brand that proposes everyday wear.
An elegant form that also evokes the essence of couture from nearly 100 years ago.
If I had to put it into words, the concept of "mode" is closest to my own feeling, but it's a jacket that is newer and unseen, yet unmistakably SARTO.
SARTO's specialty: the swing of the arm.
The narrowed bust further emphasizes it, and while respecting the suppleness of the reverse sewing, the cuff structure guides the silhouette's outline.
It's too beautiful.
My flat upper body looks three-dimensional, like a sculpture. (laughs)
Among all the clothes I've seen, I think this has the coolest back view.
It has a subtle stiffness almost formal, yet it's elegant and modern.
This is truly amazing, but it might not come across unless you try it on.
You might think it's made of a stiff fabric because of its beautifully defined form, but it's actually a wonderfully supple and lustrous double-faced wool.
Suppleness and luster akin to cashmere.
As mentioned earlier, we had an issue where we had to change the fabric, but the Katsuri Keori fabric SARTO proposed is truly exceptional.
I was worried that the twill would be too strong compared to the original fabric, making it too classical, but it actually tightens up the overall mood nicely.
Casual, situated between classic, formal, and mode.
As I've written many times over the past three days, SARTO ultimately proposes "unpretentious" everyday wear.
But it's precisely because they create it with incredibly high skill and sensibility that SARTO excites the heart.
This jacket sent shivers down my spine.
(Though I've also bought pants and a shirt this season.)
I hope to have the opportunity to help you find the SARTO that excites your heart from among the 149 pieces.
Also, talking with designer Toyoshima, pattern maker Ikeda, and sales representative Okamoto will greatly enhance your understanding of SARTO.
This is the first time for Toyoshima and Ikeda to be present at a store as a brand, and it's also the first time for our store to host such an event.
We're looking forward to it, and we hope you are too.
We sincerely look forward to your visit starting this Saturday.