Hello,
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, as the title suggests, I'd like to talk about Nomàt.
I introduced Nomàt's pine soot-dyed shirt as the opening of this season, but three months have already passed since then...
The temperature has dropped considerably, and we are finally in full autumn/winter mode.
At this timing, some great items from Nomàt have arrived, so I'd like to introduce them along with items that have been on display for a while.
Nomàt
YAK Double Breasted Knit Coat
color _ Brown
size _ 1,2
This item symbolizes Nomàt's 25AW season.
A "knit coat" made from undyed brown yak.
This season, Nomàt focused on the "hardness" and "softness" that materials and clothing shapes possess.
How to make the "softness" of materials and clothes "hard" to match the image Nomàt wants to express.
And vice versa.
This yak knit coat, while being too soft in its raw material state for the shape to be precisely defined, achieves a supple and three-dimensional form by using a dense, thick knit fabric for the coat.
This is pretty amazing.
It feels like it has reached a place that woven coats (or rather, coats are usually woven) could never reach.
The most obvious feature is the back view.
The unique suppleness of the knit and its moderate weight, which tends to fall downwards, create soft drapes that hug the shoulders and shoulder blades.
It looks like this in a more natural state.
When you walk, this gently sways, so it's bound to be beautiful.
Another obvious feature is the line of the arms.
I think the force of the arms trying to fall downwards and the stiffness of the armhole seams act together, causing the arms to narrow slightly near the armholes.
And from there, the cylindrical arms fall straight down.
The back from the side also looks quite beautiful.
The way the shoulders, back, and arms flow is a softness and strength I've never felt with woven coats.
Giving strength to supple and light raw materials through knit construction and pattern work.
The story titled "Paradox Texture" in the collection becomes evident.
In terms of detailed specifications, to prevent the knit fabric from being a disadvantage, herringbone tape and backing buttons are used in combination behind the buttons.
As you can see around the shoulders, basically all seams are finished with linking so they don't overlap.
Therefore, there is absolutely no bulkiness when worn, nor any stiffness in the seams in terms of appearance.
It's a small detail, but for someone like me who gets bothered by such things forever once they notice them, I think this is a very important point.
Another major feature of a knit coat is that it depends on the stiffness and shape of what is worn underneath.
Some people might perceive this negatively, but I think it's a very interesting point.
In these photos, I'm wearing an Olde Homesteader INTERLOCK series with an Olde H & Daughtter driver's vest layered under the coat.
This successfully corrects my naturally thin upper body and sloping shoulders.
Furthermore, since it allows me to wear the knit coat's distinctive arm lines without bulging, I personally think wearing it with a knit vest is the most elegant combination.
With that in mind, please look at the previous photos again.
Instead of completely covering everything with the coat, it creates beauty in the body lines that show through the coat.
With a different way of thinking, I believe a new criterion for deciding what to wear it with will emerge.
Nomàt
YAK Short Stole
color _ Brown
size _F
We also have stoles made from the same material.
It's fine to wear it around your neck as usual.
It's also fine to wear it around your waist.
I haven't taken a picture, but it would also look good wrapped around the head.
It's perfectly fine to use it freely.
Oh, by the way.
Regarding the sizing of the coat, since the edges of the fabric are finished flat without being turned back, I believe most people can wear it by simply rolling up and securing the sleeves as shown in the photo.
I am 178cm and 63kg and wearing size 2, but a rough guide is that size 1 is for women and size 2 is for men.
I think it would be interesting if you could decide based on the overall volume and the clothes you pair it with.
Nomàt
COTTON Hand Painted Militery Jacket
color _ Brown
size _ 2
Next up is "hard" clothing.
Hand-painted brown resin on beige cotton fabric with a brush.
Therefore, the inside of the garment retains the original fabric color and texture.
The original fabric has a soft cotton texture, but the resin paint gives it a very hard impression.
At first glance, it looks like leather, but the surface that touches the skin is soft.
This textile aims to achieve both contradictory qualities of "hardness" and "softness."
Indeed, it's quite hard and solid when new, but it is said to soften up nicely with wear.
Also, it won't peel off like paint, they say.
That's also quite mysterious.
There are adjusters on the side.
Buttons are placed in front of the pocket opening.
When it softens up from wear, cinching it tightly with the adjusters might create a nice contrast.
The natural unevenness from hand-brushing evokes the irregularity of natural materials like leather.
The fit is relatively relaxed, but it's best to break it in by wearing it often.
In that regard, since it's not leather, let's wear it a lot and break it down.
Nomàt
WOOL COTTON Straight Pants
color _ Brown
size _ 1,2
Finally, this one.
More than "hard" or "soft," this piece had a mysterious charm to me at the exhibition.
Actually, despite being called "Straight Pants," they have a subtle taper around the knee.
In other words, from the knee down to the hem, there's just a slight flare.
You can't really tell from the photos, and it's barely noticeable even in person.
But I think that's precisely the mysterious charm that drew me in.
It makes your posture look elegant in a very natural way.
I don't know the exact reasons, but I think it will really catch the eye when it blends into the city.
The fabric is a light wool-cotton denim.
The warp threads are indigo cotton, and the weft threads are brown wool.
I believe the weft threads are made from about three different shades of brown yarn.
The hem is cut off.
However, it is secured with stitching, so I don't think the weft threads will pull out further and become too fringed.
The protruding warp threads hint at the indigo color.
This color scheme and use of material are why it looks elegant rather than hippie, despite being flared and cut-off.
If you wear these pants a lot, the cotton should fade, and I think they will undergo a unique change.
For me, size 2 is just barely enough for these pants.
So, size 1 might truly be for women.
I would be delighted if slender men or women would take a look.
Please enjoy Nomàt's autumn/winter collection.