Hello.
I'm Nakayama from CASANOVA&CO.
This time, as the title suggests, it's about Nobuyuki Matsui.
This season, too, the clothing lineup is intricately designed.
Every season, when the delivery arrives and I see Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes for the first time, I'm so overwhelmed by the intricate details that I can't help but smile.
It's a brand where each piece of clothing has that much power.
And for the 2025SS season.
As a collection brand, Nobuyuki Matsui has a season theme, and for 2025SS, it's "Swimmy."
To quote the brand,
Gently swaying
Through a natural filter
As it is, into clothing.
As per the theme, this season's creations are deeply embedded in the clothing.
This is especially evident in the textiles.
The textile expression is achieved through craftsmanship, not prints or coloring.
If you look up the meaning of the word "Swimmy," as you may know, it means "to swim," but it also means "hazy" or "blurry."
The meaning of the 2025SS season theme for Nobuyuki Matsui is the latter.
I think it will be more interesting if you keep the theme in mind while reading.
Now, here is our lineup for Nobuyuki Matsui 2025SS "Swimmy."
Nobuyuki Matsui
Swimmy denim jacket
Color _ Blue
size _ one size
material _ Outer fabric : cotton 100% , Sleeve lining : cupro 100%
Nobuyuki Matsui
Swimmy denim vest
Color _ Blue
size _ one size
material _ Outer fabric : cotton 100% , Lining : cupro 100%
Nobuyuki Matsui
Tied open collar shirts
Color _ White
size _ 2,3
material _ cotton 53%,silk 47%
The three items above and the buffalo horn double ring belt that is already listed on the online store.
There are two types of fabrics.
Ultra-special denim and ultra-special pleats.
As per the season's theme, these textiles appear somewhat hazy and blurry, yet they seem to sway and move despite the fabric being still.
Regarding the denim fabric, the perception might change if you move your screen closer or further away.
These fabrics are truly the fruits of the craftsmen's skills.
And what's wonderful is that the craftsmanship used in each textile, which has existed for a very long time, has been used to create something that had not yet been born, through the brand's vision and filter.
This is truly "onkochishin" (learning new things from old).
Before I joined CASANOVA&CO, I was deeply involved in industrial fields. When I was a student, I designed robots and processed metals to create them.
What I think when I'm doing it myself is that when it comes to creating something new with technical aspects like metal processing, my thoughts tend to lean towards improving the quality and precision.
In other words, to be more beautiful, more careful, and more delicate.
That's why I believe that creating something unprecedented by leveraging technical aspects from a different perspective, in addition to such diligent efforts, is not something everyone can do.
Taking something already refined and adding new challenges to make it even more refined and new.
That's why I'm so overwhelmed.
So, what exactly is being done with the denim and pleated fabrics in the previous photos?
First, from the denim fabric.
The expression of varying shades, like water rippled by the wind, sways gently.
The secret to this color variation lies in the fabric's structure.
A fabric called "yoroke-ori" (swaying weave) was used, which also appeared in the brand's 23AW coat.
Woven fabrics are created by opening the warp threads up and down in a zigzag pattern according to the structure, and then weaving the weft threads through them.
The way the weft threads are woven in yoroke-ori is very unique.
Instead of weaving the weft threads straight, they are intentionally made to meander, loosening the weave in certain areas.
Because the weave is partially loose, it is a painstaking fabric that cannot be produced by machines that weave quickly.
This alone is special, but it's only about half of it.
The fact that the fabric is partially loosely woven means that there are inconsistencies in density depending on the area of the fabric.
Therefore, differences in density also lead to differences in fading when washed.
When exposed to water during washing, the difference in density creates a natural contrast due to variations in how the threads swell and fray in denser and looser areas.
This is the reason for the expression of this denim fabric.
It's also incredibly cool that this technique, which enhances characteristics through washing, is being utilized in denim fabric, where fading is one of its joys.
Next up are the pleats.
Among Japanese brands that offer pleated clothing, most, I believe, feature uniform, straight folds.
However, Nobuyuki Matsui's pleats are complex and irregular, meandering, intersecting, and overlapping.
The inspiration for this seems to come from a type of tie-dyeing called "Tatsumaki Shibori."
Tatsumaki Shibori is a traditional dyeing technique where fabric is thinly folded, then wound and secured with thread like char siu, and then dyed.
Nobuyuki Matsui's pleats use the same technique up to the point of dyeing, but instead of dyeing, the fabric is treated with a shape-memory agent.
This creates pleats that retain the wrinkles formed when the fabric was folded thinly and the impressions left by the tightly wound thread, even after being cinched.
In other words, to create these pleats, the fabric needs to be cut to the required length, then folded, then wound tightly with thread to secure it, and then treated with a shape-memory agent. It seems that multiple processes are required at the fabric production stage.
What's more, the process of winding the thread is done by hand.
And to top it off, they went through countless trials and errors to find the ideal pleat appearance, finally arriving at these pleats.
I think you'll be drawn in when you actually see these irregular pleats.
The forms of the clothes incorporating these ultra-special denim and ultra-special pleats are also really cool.
Not only is the fabric itself something unprecedented, but the construction of the clothes is also unparalleled.
The designer, Matsui-san, was originally an expert in tailoring, so the fitting of the clothes is absolutely superb.
And the fact that a single piece of clothing is created with complex cutting without compromising that fitting is so amazing it makes me lose my vocabulary.
3rd A sophisticated cut based on the design of a denim jacket, with added and subtracted stitching and sewing to prevent it from becoming too casual.
Convenient slash pockets are located along the seam.
Only bartack stitching in contrasting colors appears at the pocket edges.
The sleeves are constructed using three pieces of fabric to allow for movement and create a beautiful, forward-curving silhouette.
Although there is no photo, only the sleeve lining features the original Nobuyuki Matsui logo lining.
I think it would also be good to unbutton the cuffs and roll them up to show a glimpse of the lining.
And the buttons are buffalo horn buttons with leather.
It was my first time seeing a translucent, light-toned type, and it looks cool.
The neck can also be worn upright.
When the collar is standing up, it's recommended to fasten the very well-made chin strap.
Not only does it fill the gap in the neck, but its quality is so exceptional that it doesn't feel like an accessory, so it's better to show it off.
I don't think you'll often see such a cool chin strap.
But I couldn't take a picture.
The vests that the brand releases every season are also of outstanding quality.
Even when hanging, the neckline is designed to be close-fitting, creating a beautiful curved outline around the neck.
The front buttons dramatically change the look depending on how they are fastened.
And finally, the pleated shirt.
Nobuyuki Matsui's shirts generally feature concealed stitching, and I felt that the absence of visible stitching where the fabric pieces connect was a perfect match for this pleated design.
Regarding the sleeve attachment, the high armhole design, sewn like a classic jacket, results in a beautifully rounded shoulder.
Nevertheless, the open collar, which is not stiff, demonstrates the brand's unique approach to clothing design.
For me, at 165cm and 50kg, size 2 was a perfect fit, so it has a classic shirt sizing.
There's no problem wearing it under a jacket at all.
Nobuyuki Matsui continues to create compelling clothing for the 2025SS season.
Because each garment is so intricately crafted by the brand, there is a distinct sense of specialness when worn.
If you're interested, please check it out.