Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
The spring/summer season, which started in mid-December, is now past its halfway point and approaching its final stage.
However, the actual spring and summer seasons are just beginning.
... And it was precisely at this time, when I was most unsure about what to wear, that a new brand arrived.
It's new to CASANOVA&CO, but as a brand, it's a "veteran" with over 10 years of history.
COHÉRENCE.
Although I haven't been in this line of work long enough to say "back in the day...", I learned about this brand either before or shortly after I started this job, and I secretly admired it.
Well, back then I thought it was an imported brand. (laughs)
It was much later that I learned COHÉRENCE is a domestic brand, with production also done in Japan.
The reason for this ties into my phrase "secretly admired" – back then, I simply thought that if there ever came a day when COHÉRENCE intersected with my own fashion, it would surely be ten years or more in the future.
To put it very roughly, it was a feeling of awe, like "This just doesn't suit a young guy like me..."
However, as time passed and I got older (though still barely in my 20s), my face started showing my age (I was just too young before), my stomach got a little bigger (too much drinking), and I've been realizing lately that I'm gradually approaching the "adult" borderline that was readjusted after I turned 20. So, I thought, "Maybe I can pull it off now?"
No, well, more accurately, when I was thinking about buying for 26SS, I felt that in order to build the future of CASANOVA&CO, I had to see more things than ever before, and I wanted people to see them too. That's the honest truth.
I crammed my schedule and visited exhibitions, seeing a considerable number of clothes from brands other than those we already work with.
I had decided beforehand that the 26SS exhibition would be a good opportunity, so I contacted COHÉRENCE myself.
Then, at the exhibition, I saw their full collection for the first time, and I felt in both my heart and mind that I had encountered truly cool clothes.
This is the time.
... That's how it all came about, and we'll be introducing it to you all starting this season.
If I were to summarize the characteristics of COHÉRENCE succinctly, it would be the stoic nature of their research in creating shapes and materials, and the outstanding sense of balance they employ when bringing those clothes to life.
I haven't had the chance to meet the person in question yet, so I can't say for sure, but I believe these qualities stem from Mr. Nakagomi, the director of COHÉRENCE.
Even without meeting him, you can tell just by looking at the clothes.
They are authentic and not showy, yet they clearly have an extraordinary presence.
I can't compare them to avant-garde pieces, but when it comes to the excellence of materials, stitching, and patterns, and the "sense" of how to output them, I believe COHÉRENCE is among the top tier in Japan, easily fitting on one hand.
Well, for the finer details, please experience them firsthand rather than through words.
This season, CASANOVA&CO will be introducing the "SARRAU" line from COHÉRENCE.
Originally, COHÉRENCE started as an outerwear brand centered around coats, under the concept of "THE WARDROBE OF LEGENDS."
Drawing inspiration from portraits of legendary artists who transcended all boundaries with their talent, COHÉRENCE proposes authentic pieces for the present day, using uniquely developed Japanese materials and meticulous sewing techniques.
This is the official statement from COHÉRENCE.
As stated there, they take inspiration from portraits of legendary painters and poets, envisioning the materials and construction of the clothes from that era. They then carry out the entire manufacturing process, from fabric development to sewing, all within Japan.
Among those, the SARRAU line we are introducing this time, unlike coats and other outerwear, is a capsule collection focused on "workwear" worn by artists while creating in their studios.
Sarrau is a French word for a work smock-like garment, and COHÉRENCE's SARRAU line is precisely based on that concept.
For us, starting with the spring/summer season, we've focused our selection from the SARRAU collection on "one fabric."
10oz Logger Selvedge Denim
Yes, denim.
Of course, this is COHÉRENCE's original denim fabric, and it is truly superb denim.
Personally, it's overwhelmingly good among raw denims, without any special processing.
The brand's official description best explains what kind of fabric it is, so here it is:
This exclusive material was designed based on insights gained from analyzing the lightweight and durable denims used in workwear and military fatigue pants from the 1920s to the 1960s.
The irregular slubs and neps of the yarn, characteristic of those produced with primitive equipment of the time, are recreated by creating a recipe for such yarns and then randomly arranging them in the warp with different counts.
Furthermore, by specifically selecting only those old-style shuttle looms capable of replicating yarn tension close to that era, we achieve complex and rich textures even in a light ounce fabric.
The description is succinct, but if you read it carefully, I think you'll understand just how amazing this denim is.
The actual texture is wonderfully mysterious: it's lightweight yet rich in character, uneven yet refined.
It's a denim fabric with a thorough COHÉRENCE-like craftsmanship, but it's neither vintage-style nor an offshoot of the avant-garde.
I think it's very COHÉRENCE-like to take this overwhelming knowledge, research, and manufacturing prowess and incorporate it without being obvious, using an exceptional sense of balance.
...I've rambled on for too long, but please take a look at the clothes.
COHÉRENCE
ABIQUIU
color _ INDIGO
size _ S,M,L
Painter (1887 - 1986)
Mod. ABIQUIU was born from the motif of her western shirts in her wardrobe.
The model name is derived from the region in northern New Mexico, USA, which provided her with creative inspiration and became her final home.
COHÉRENCE has named this so-called Western shirt "ABIQUIU."
10oz Logger Selvedge Denim, with yellow stitching and white snap buttons.
From the way the edges are handled, to the stitch count, and thread weight... everything is beautiful.
The balance of the chest and the shape of the collar follow the "grammar of Western shirts," yet when worn, it stands tall like a dress shirt.
A compact fit from the neck to the shoulders, with a natural shoulder slope.
It's not rigid as it's been one-washed by the brand, but even in this new condition, I've never seen a Western shirt this beautifully natural.
I think it will settle into an even more natural silhouette after washing.
There's absolutely no waste.
Lately, I'm not in the mood for loose-fitting clothes, so this amount of room is just right.
It's hard to tell, but the armholes are also compact.
You can easily wear it over a proper tailored jacket.
In fact, I'd recommend creating that kind of vibe.
The hem has a deep curve.
Once it softens up after washing, I think it'll be a Western shirt that looks great tucked in.
COHÉRENCE
ALAIN
color _ INDIGO
size _ S,M,L
Solo Sailor, Writer, Tennis Champion (1893-1941)
A snapshot taken in Cannes in 1920 shows him participating in a tennis competition with the waist of his white sports trousers tied with a rope.
During the production process of ALAIN, sports trousers from that era and workwear styles with rope-tied waists were analyzed.
ALAIN is a type of trouser with a drawstring waist.
However, it's more about using the drawstring to assist in conforming to the hip bones, rather than tightening a large, waist-free size.
Therefore, the inside of the waist is also structured to enhance hold, providing a secure feeling that's unexpected for drawstring pants.
The details are characteristic of European trousers from that era, combined with a highly secure inner waist.
There are also suspender buttons.
The top button of the waist is on the inside, so it won't interfere with the drawstring.
Oh, and unlike the shirt, the stitching here is white.
This white stitching isn't just for a clean look; I believe it's designed to subtly embed the stitches, perhaps through thread count or tension, to create that effect.
A texture that feels both old and new, born from thorough control of minute details.
I have a habit of categorizing these things under the term "sense of balance," but the balance between ruggedness and dignity in COHÉRENCE's SARRAU is on another level.
It's otherworldly.
The cord wraps around from the opposite side.
I won't say what it is, but it's exciting.
There's only a right hip pocket.
Here's how it looks when worn.
Honestly, it's just beautiful.
The definitive answer for denim trousers has arrived.
This is it. This is ALAIN.
The hips aren't too compact, so I think anyone can wear them.
And the fact that it doesn't negatively affect the silhouette is proof of excellent pattern making.
My legs weren't long enough, so I folded them up.
Since it's one-washed, there won't be a dramatic shrinkage, but if hemming is needed after washing, we will certainly accommodate it.
The eccentric design, which randomly arranges yarn counts, unevenness, and slubs in the warp, creates a texture and unevenness that are impossible for a 10oz light denim.
It's not until you wear it, rather than seeing it on a hanger, that you realize this denim is extraordinary.
When the pants are this beautiful, what you wear on top doesn't matter anymore.
Even if it's just a T-shirt, it still exudes elegance and masculinity, transcending both era and season. Timeless.
If you try them on, I think you'll realize it's a world apart from "jeans."
COHÉRENCE
KEES
color _ INDIGO
size _ S,M,L
Painter (1877-1968)
This model is inspired by the Chore Jacket he wore in a 1952 portrait. It incorporates the iconic double-breasted front popular in Europe at the time, along with insights from archives of various eras and nationalities. A special cut in the armhole, similar to those found in hunting jackets, allows for flexible arm movement.
KEES, a double-breasted chore jacket.
It has a slightly more compact impression than typical coverall-type light outerwear.
The front has a distinctive appearance.
Square pockets on both hips, a rounded pocket with the corners cut off on the left chest, and a watch pocket positioned slightly lower on the right chest.
It's catchy, but not gaudy.
It is a one-of-a-kind chore jacket, derived from a wide and deep knowledge spanning various eras and nationalities.
This distinct round collar has a seam at the center back, cut on the bias.
No wonder the collar folds so beautifully.
Cutting the collar on the true bias is seen in dress shirts, but is it also a feature in the context of workwear like chore jackets...?
If you were to do that with workwear, which prioritizes efficiency, I can't help but feel you'd get in trouble. What do you think?
If anyone knows, please tell me.
The waist has a drawcord.
Personally, I recommend a slight cinch.
There are plenty of pockets on the inside too.
Helpful.
For me, the best thing about KEES is this.
I'll show you how it looks when worn later, but what's so great about it is that the sleeves look incredibly sleek yet offer amazing freedom of movement.
However, despite the sleek sleeves, it still has enough volume to maintain a balance that doesn't contradict the overall feel of a "denim chore jacket."
I'm writing this casually, but I really think this accumulation of subtle balances is what makes COHERENCE so cool.
Here's what it looks like worn.
By the way, all items are M size, and I am 178cm and 65kg.
You can assume that M size fits this body type perfectly.
The sleeves, that's it.
There are literally only benefits to wearing these sleeves.
I even thought it would be great if all clothing had sleeves like this. Lol.
I believe a beautiful back shot is a sign of good clothing.
Although it looks stiff as new, the beautiful connection from the shoulder line to the arm is evident.
And the way the arm moves.
I'm assuming everyone likes the beauty of this part, so I'll proceed with that premise, but it's 100 times better in person than in the photos.
I figured everyone would want to see it, so I washed mine once.
Washing it removed the stiffness and gave it more texture.
However, the beauty of the form remains intact.
It's perfect even from the side.
I've been wearing the same outfit for about three days now.
WR/ESSE's The Step, SARTO's embroidered skipper tucked in, and COHERENCE's KEES.
The only things that change are the inner layer, which might be OLDE HOMESTEADER, OLDE HOMESTEADER YOUTH, or YE OLDE AND NEWMAN, and the subtle decision of whether or not to wear a recently purchased scarf.
Since last night, I've been really into subtly peeking out the skipper's collar.
And a glimpse of a fantastic necklace.
I'm pretty satisfied with it, so I'll probably stick to this style for a while.
The washed 10oz Logger Selvedge Denim fabric has such a texture that you'd doubt it's really 10 ounces.
I learned that my conventional wisdom that light ounce denim tends to be flat is overturned by COHERENCE's meticulous craftsmanship.
Please forgive the somewhat uneven and sloppy way it's cinched, but I think this slight cinch gives it a nice, defined shape.
The drawstring hangs towards the center back, so please adjust it before wearing.
KEES, of course, but also ABIQUIU and ALAIN, are garments that transform when washed, and transform even further when continuously worn.
Although they may appear a bit stiff when new, I believe that the SARRAU collection within COHERENCE offers a tangible response the more you wear it. So, I would be delighted if you could experience COHERENCE, starting with SARRAU.
Sales will begin in stores this weekend, starting Saturday, April 11th.