Hello.
I'm Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
FUKUBORI new collection launch
&
FUKU WO HORU exhibition
2026.04.04 (SAT) - 2026.04.08 (WED)
It's starting this weekend.
The FUKUBORI and FUKU WO HORU event.
The other day, I introduced a coverall based on PAYDAY and painter pants based on LEE as "American workwear."
Today, in contrast, I'm introducing "Japanese workwear."
I felt this when I saw the 1940s Japanese Air Force flight jacket, which was "Japanese military" wear introduced during last year's FUKUBORI event, but when you say "Japanese workwear," it doesn't quite click.
Honestly, it's something I hadn't paid any attention to at all.
But when you actually look at the structure, you can clearly see that Japanese workwear of that era followed Western theories of the time.
I imagine that within Japan's clothing industry, which likely hadn't yet developed commercial fashion at the time, there were undoubtedly a few exceptionally meticulous individuals who understood these Western theories.
It feels like there's a global standard, not just a dichotomy between "Japanese" and "Western."
It's fascinating to think that this already existed around the time of World War II.
Allow me to introduce both the jacket and the pants.
FUKUBORI
Railway Jacket
color _ Ecru
size _ 2
This jacket, commonly known as "Nappa-fuku," was originally made as a uniform for railway engineers of the Japanese National Railways.
Since it was for the Japanese National Railways, FUKUBORI also named it the "Railway Jacket."
Similar to the 1950s PAYDAY reference coverall I introduced the other day, it features a raglan sleeve design.
The Nappa-fuku wasn't likely sold in department stores, so rather than a sales strategy, the reason for the raglan sleeves was probably the functional aspect of ease of movement and the ambiguity of shoulder width, making it easier to distribute as a uniform.
The front placket of the top button is positioned slightly awkwardly.
According to Mr. Kawahara, this is also a detail common to PAYDAY coveralls, designed to "protect workers."
This slightly smaller, rounded pocket on the right chest.
It's said to have been for holding a pocket watch.
There are 7 pleats on the cuffs.
This should also be considered as a result of trial and error in how to accommodate the necessary volume, rather than a design choice for appearance.
However, from our modern perspective, these balloon sleeves can also be seen as contemporary.
The raglan sleeves curve from the shoulder, the volume expands towards the cuffs, and then suddenly narrows at the cuffs.
It's clear that this design was intended to not hinder the productivity of workers at the time, but when you interact with the garment again, knowing this, you start to see its charm from a different perspective.
The way the fabric gathers from the elbow down when you put your hands in your pockets gives a sense of spaciousness that wouldn't exist if it were "a design purely aimed at that."
The watch pocket is sewn with a curve, while the chest and waist pockets are sewn with straight lines.
And the distance from the edge of each.
Mr. Kawahara says that this difference clearly shows the ingenuity of the production site at that time.
I believe Mr. Kawahara, who gains such insights by unraveling stitches, is the only person who can "talk to clothes."
When I hear his insights, I can think, "I see~," but how difficult it is to get to that point from scratch.
He carefully unravels each stitch of a garment he neither designed nor sewed, and as if possessing the garment, he extracts the "voice" remaining in the clothing from its structure and specifications.
Mr. Kawahara's special ability, made possible not only by his career designing various clothes as a pattern expert but also by listening to the voices of countless garments through his "FUKU WO HORU" (Digging for Clothes) activities.
In workwear, having narrow or adjustable cuffs must be an important mechanism.
Because life-threatening accidents could occur.
Oh, by the way, the fabric used for this "Japanese workwear" is different from the one used for "American workwear."
This is fabric from the Nishiwaki production area in Hyogo Prefecture.
A sharp, cool nuance characteristic of the Nishiwaki production area, distinct from the atmosphere of Okayama and Fukuyama.
If the fabric had a rugged, masculine workwear feel, combined with the reference shape, it would fall within the expected balance, but this fabric choice for the Nappa-fuku is outstanding.
I think it's a wonderful fabric that makes a completely different impression in person compared to photos.
FUKUBORI
Railway Pants
color _ Ecru
size _ 2
The "Railway Pants" in the same fabric.
These are quite a handful. (laughs)
A watch pocket on the front, and
Only a flap pocket on the back.
Pants with two pockets.
One of them is for a pocket watch, so you can't even fit a wallet, smartphone, or even cigarettes.
It's practically a one-pocket. (laughs)
Well, it is inconvenient, but how we make the most of that awkwardness is where we show our skill.
The fabric has a crisp, dry feel, so let's wear them casually without trying too hard to compensate for the inconvenience.
The waist is ridiculously large, so it's designed to be tied with a string.
The string and loop are positioned about 4cm down from the top edge of the waist, which prevents the string from digging directly into your stomach.
Like this.
Due to that, the waist will have a drawstring-like fullness, so let's balance it cleverly with a tuck-in or something.
Please wear them with a casual ease.
However, when you get the hang of wearing them, they transform quite a bit.
Their stoic inconvenience gives them an extraordinary aura.
That phenomenon where the old carpenter who prefers inconvenient analog tools looks like the most skilled technician.
But the fabric's nuance is truly superb, with a unique drape amidst its crispness that creates a feel I haven't experienced much elsewhere.
Furthermore, the cleanliness that comes from not having unnecessary pockets.
I think it's a piece where the good shape and "how you wear it" are directly reflected in your style.
The brand technically offers different sizes, but honestly, I think everyone would be fine with size 2.
Since the waist is over 100cm.
Although they might look difficult on a hanger, I think you'll find them surprisingly interesting once you try them on.
These will also go on sale starting Saturday, April 4th.
If you're interested, please look forward to it.