Yamauchi was the brand that dramatically changed how I experienced the thrill of clothing in my life.
It all started with the Yamauchi cargo pants I bought when I first joined CASANOVA&CO.
They have become very, very special clothes for me, and of all the various clothes I've worn since joining the company, those pants are by far the most frequently worn.
Clothes that become special.
I believe that's where the true value of Yamauchi's clothing lies.
Yamauchi-san, as a designer, dedicates himself to exploring every possibility to ensure that those who wear his clothes have a wonderful clothing experience.
Of course, I think all designers are like that.
However, when you look at the stitching, specifications, and techniques in Yamauchi's sewing, you can't help but feel an overwhelming earnestness.
Moreover, in the world of clothing, which also serves the purpose of adornment, I find it quite unconventional.
Instead of "adornment" coming first,
it's clothing where "accompanying the owner" comes first, followed by "adornment."
That's why a robust and user-friendly design serves as the foundation,
and I feel a stronger sense from Yamauchi in recent seasons that they are trying to further elevate it into something that can be adorned.
It feels like coolness and richness are being added to something incredibly robust and convenient.
This is quite exciting.
When you look at a single piece of clothing from various perspectives—sewing, design, materials, and comfort—each aspect is of high quality.
It's dense and rich.
I enjoy tracing the designer's intentions and personality left in the clothes in this way, and I believe that confronting a single item and determining its value for myself helps to refine my own values.
The clothing this time is truly emblematic of Yamauchi's creations.
Pardon my belated introduction, this is Nakayama from CASANOVA&CO.
As mentioned in the title and the beginning, this time it's Yamauchi.
And as you can already tell, this blog post is going to be long.
That incredible jacket, featured on Instagram about three and a half months ago.
I have so much to say about that jacket that it will surely become a lengthy post.
So, I'll briefly outline the topics I want to discuss, like a table of contents. (laughs)
・About the sewing of clothing named "3-way"
・A parade of the best of Japanese technology in purely Japanese manufacturing
・Japanese clothing by a Japanese designer
Broadly, I'll proceed in this order.
Thank you for reading.
Yamauchi
3-way Shield Cotton Zip Jacket
color _ brown×arimatsu brown
size _ 3
・About the sewing of clothing named "3-way"
I believe that Yamauchi's clothes consistently embody an incredible profundity due to their elaborate construction.
However,
However, indeed.
It's no exaggeration to say that these "3-way" clothes are truly extraordinary.
As the name suggests, this garment has three facets.
1.
2.
3.
The first image is the outer jacket.
The second image is the inner jacket.
The third image is the jacket with the outer and inner layers combined.
The outer and inner layers are separate garments.
They are also designed to be combined.
While I'm referring to them as "outer" and "inner" for ease of explanation, the key is that each piece is independently well-made.
Creating two independent garments.
And,
Ensuring they can be combined perfectly.
Yamauchi-san's meticulously designed clothes are a collection of the finest techniques from weavers, sewers, and dyeing factory artisans. Furthermore,
the 3-way garments add the functionality of being able to combine them.
They are more than sufficient to convey the spirit of Yamauchi's clothing creation.
The method of combining them is entirely by buttons.
While Yamauchi operates with a mass-production background, each garment is sewn by a single tailor, following a "marunui" (whole garment sewing) style.
This is because Yamauchi-san's desired clothing cannot be made with a so-called fast-paced production method.
At the design stage, Yamauchi-san considers the design and specifications of the clothing down to millimeters, sometimes even fractions of a millimeter.
If those millimeters or fractions of millimeters cannot be met, it simply cannot be sewn.
If different people sew different parts, inconsistencies can arise due to individual habits.
It might be difficult to perceive such millimeter or fraction-of-a-millimeter differences in the finished garment.
However, it is this precise consideration and meticulous craftsmanship down to such numerical values that embodies Yamauchi's approach.
What surprised me, considering this point, was...
That the outer and inner layers were sewn by different tailors.
This is only possible with tailors who can sew without error.
Considering the precision of the docking when sewn by different people, it became clear just how skilled these tailors are.
The "lines" created by the sewing on each seam are so distinct, resulting in a beautifully crisp finish.
The precision of the sewing perfectly defines the silhouette of the garment.
The edges of the garment are also outstanding.
Beautiful.
Every part visible to the eye is captivating.
The more I trace the sewing of Yamauchi's clothes with my eyes, the more I understand how crucial sewing is in garment making.
・A parade of the best of Japanese technology in purely Japanese manufacturing
The 3-way garment is realized by collaborating with ultra-professional tailors in the field of sewing.
Furthermore, this time,
Both the outer shell fabric and the inner's shell and lining fabrics are dyed by artisans.
In other words,
"all" the main fabrics used are imbued with further artisanal skill.
Moreover, all of this is done through traditional Japanese dyeing techniques.
What's more, the base fabrics that undergo this dyeing process are also exquisitely crafted.
This is information overload.
However, I believe it is a culmination of a certain kind of Japanese craftsmanship beauty.
This is truly Japanese clothing.
First, let's look at the outer layer.
The Shield Cotton Cloth, also included in the product name.
The official brand name is "Ultra-High Density Shield Cotton Cloth."
An ultra-high-density water-resistant plain-weave cotton fabric that was also supplied to the Self-Defense Forces.
Hence, "Shield" cotton.
The principle is that when wet, the cotton expands, making it difficult for water to pass through.
This phenomenon occurs precisely because it is woven at an ultra-high density.
Even without it, there are no gaps, but when wet, the tightly packed threads expand, creating an almost compressed state.
Therefore, it is an extremely excellent fabric for the outer layer of a 3-way garment.
Being water-resistant means it's strong against rain and also against dirt.
If something liquid splashes on it, a quick wipe takes care of it.
Its high density also provides wind resistance.
And the uneven texture is due to the dyeing process.
The brand has named this new dyeing technique "Ancient Dye."
It seems to be a dyeing method using old dyes that were prevalent before World War II, characterized by coarser particles compared to modern dyes.
To leverage the characteristics of the dye, it is intentionally finished with a rough and bold texture.
Furthermore, it is said that only one company in Okayama Prefecture, where CASANOVA&CO is located, produces this.
It is a charming dyeing technique that has been passed down through generations, transcending time.
Its appearance is like a rock formed over time.
Ultra-High Density Shield Cotton Cross × Super Organic Ancient Dye
This combination is tremendous.
The crisp texture of the fabric, so stiff it makes a sound when you move, perfectly matches the dyed finish.
As if it were always meant to be.
It fits so perfectly that it exudes a natural look and feel, almost unbelievable for a man-made product.
I'm also incredibly impressed by the sensibility behind it, but...
Ultra-High Density Shield Cotton Cross × Super Organic Ancient Dye
This combination, as mentioned earlier.
Its realization is a product of ingenuity, patience, and the crystallization of technology that is far from rational, brought into existence.
The bottleneck is the fabric characteristics of shield cotton.
"When wet, cotton expands and repels water."
And dyeing...
Always uses water.
It's like a spear and shield paradox.
By slowly and carefully carrying out the dyeing process for more than twice the usual time, the color is deeply absorbed into the Shield Cotton Cloth.
The beautiful and meticulous Ancient Dye, which feels as if it were always meant to be, is the result of the artisans' passion, perseverance, and continuous dedication.
It is truly something imbued with soul.
Next, the outer and lining fabrics of the inner layer.
First, about the outer fabric.
The outer fabric is hemp flannel (produced in Enshu), which has appeared several times in Yamauchi's collections.
We carried it in a shirt style last year.
Yamauchi, however, decided to turn it into a winter textile by brushing the flannel material to the very limit where its durability would not be compromised, even though it has the image of a summer material.
Perhaps because hemp is a strong material, it has a look that doesn't show even a trace of the looseness characteristic of flannel.
Even if it's at the limit of durability, the fabric is structurally woven tough, so I don't think careful handling is necessary.
Even when viewed up close, the tightly arranged weave structure can be seen deep within the napped surface.
The surface is brushed, and the luster of hemp peeks through from within.
Literally a fabric with depth.
This is Yamauchi's power flannel, precisely because he favors ultimate fabrics.
It's a fabric with a very attractive look and performance.
However,
this fabric is further subjected to
a dyeing process that, once again, evokes a sense of beauty.
A check pattern with uneven thickness and density, creating a brush-like grid in a color scheme that combines navy and khaki.
This pattern is created through dyeing.
This is Arimatsu Shibori.
Arimatsu Shibori is one of the traditional dyeing techniques that has continued since the Edo period in Aichi Prefecture, where Yamauchi's atelier is also located.
Due to the nature of the process, the unique patterns created only at that moment possess a vibrant, living expression.
It's not just a garment with traditional dyeing;
rather, Arimatsu Shibori was conceived and applied with artisans to blend seamlessly with everyday wear.
There is a beauty in this check pattern that is unlike anything I've felt in a standard check pattern.
The quality of the inner layer is more than sufficient to be worn on its own.
It looks like a powerful outerwear piece.
The outer layer has an ancient dye look, and when you take it off, there's this.
I apologize for repeating myself, but I'm only calling them "inner" and "outer" for clarity. You can certainly wear the inner layer on its own without any problems.
In fact, I imagine people will mostly wear only the inner layer until just before mid-winter.
And there's more.
Next is the lining.
The lining is also dyed with a different pattern.
Incredible.
This means that the visible parts are all dyed.
It's unbelievable that three types of dyeing are required to make one garment, but
precisely because it's a 3-way garment, going to this extent significantly changes the completeness of a single piece.
To spare no effort in achieving that, and to be able to achieve it.
It's thoroughly executed. It's very "Yamauchi."
The material used is 2-ply Cupra x Cotton fabric (produced in Fujiyoshida).
This textile is made with 2-ply cupro yarn for the warp and cotton for the weft.
In addition to the excellent slipperiness as a lining, it has a firm texture that gives it a robust feel, fitting the mood of Yamauchi's clothing.
Even just the inside of the garment is truly impressive to behold.
And on it, the Arimatsu Shibori, which also appeared earlier.
A dyeing pattern like water ripples, perfectly matching the texture of the 2-ply cupro x cotton, has been applied.
Coupled with the fabric's sheen, it creates a three-dimensional effect that captivates the eye.
Yet, it somehow feels calming.
I can't help but feel an exceptional sense of taste.
A textile where intentional and accidental elements, unique to dyeing, are intertwined.
I believe it's something endlessly captivating.
・Japanese clothing by a Japanese designer
Up to this point, Yamauchi's garment creation involves passing the baton from a professional sewing expert to a weaving company that creates ultimate textiles, and then to a dyeing company that evolves traditional techniques for clothing specifications.
Yamauchi's clothes are made by passing the baton from one professional to another, resulting in a single garment.
And all of this is done by Japanese hands.
It is created by the baton of Japanese artisans who are still striving to master their skills.
And,
the image of Mr. Yamauchi as a designer, who communicates with such individuals season after season,
and aims to improve over time, is the key that connects all these professionals.
As a Japanese clothing brand, their aim is to create beautiful garments that leverage refined Japanese craftsmanship.
This is what Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi says.
It is believed that this will revitalize the Japanese clothing manufacturing industry and lead to its proper development in the future.
The 3-way Shield Cotton Zip Jacket felt like a strong manifestation of that sentiment.
It's a product where refined Japanese craftsmanship and sensibility are poured into everything visible.
Because it's a garment imbued with Japanese beauty, I thought this was Japanese luxury.
Luxury that only Japan can achieve, only in Japan.
However, with Yamauchi's clothing, there is no hesitation to wear it due to excessive luxury.
I, who wear Yamauchi's clothes with extremely high frequency, can vouch for that.
Despite the conviction and effort put into its creation, Yamauchi's clothing possesses an unexpectedly generous capacity.
Given what I've said so far, you might think Yamauchi's clothes have a certain tension due to the passion involved in their creation.
However, when you wear them, a striking feature is how approachable they feel.
It feels as if they are genuinely open to various other clothes.
So, finally, here are some wearing photos.
Inner version.
Outer version.
It's also appealing to change the way you wear it depending on whether it's an outer or inner layer.
Docking version.
When docked, it takes on the appearance of a heavy outer jacket.
I think this generous acceptance is also characteristic of Japanese people.
Even in clothing, we adopted Western clothing culture in addition to our unique traditional Japanese attire, wafuku.
In music too, K-Pop, Western music, and cultures from all over the world are embraced and widely adopted.
Perhaps it's a kind of Japanese temperament.
I remember Matsuko Deluxe also mentioning something similar on a TV show.
Yamauchi's clothing, where Japanese beauty takes form and conveys the Japanese temperament.
In addition to the 3-way Shield Cotton Zip Jacket, our store offers many other Yamauchi items for you to see.
If you are interested, please do visit.