Hello.
I'm Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, following on from the other day, I'd like to introduce items from calmlence.
Please allow me to introduce one type of shirt in two colors, and a matching set.
First, the shirt.
calmlence
CLASSIC OPEN COLLAR SHIRT
material _ acetate 50%,rayon 50%
color _ BLACK
size _ 1,2,3
calmlence
CLASSIC OPEN COLLAR SHIRT
material _ acetate 50%,rayon 50%
color _ D.BROWN
size _ 1,2,3
*Size 1 is sold out.
This shirt features a floral pattern, often incorporated by calmlence.
However, this fabric is a completely new expression of floral patterns, entirely different from the silk cupra fabrics used in previous seasons.
Flowers that appear to float from the fabric.
To put it simply, the floral pattern is expressed through jacquard weaving, but it's not just a simple floral jacquard.
“Fabric-dyed floral jacquard”
Originally, Mr. Kumagai's inspiration for this was a dress fabric popular among women in the Showa era.
Based on this inspiration, it's an original floral jacquard woven in the Kiryu production area, designed using both acetate and rayon yarns for both warp and weft.
At that time, the twist count and processing of the rayon yarn were subtly changed and arranged for both the warp and weft.
By controlling these acetate and rayon yarns, a "rayon floral pattern" is woven using jacquard.
However, at this stage, the floral pattern is not yet visible to the eye.
The mechanism is that by post-dyeing this "rayon floral pattern" fabric, only the acetate threads are dyed, and the rayon threads remain undyed, causing the floral pattern to emerge.
In other words, what is visible from the front is mostly acetate, and rayon appears on the back.
Furthermore, by changing the twist count of the rayon for the warp and weft, differences in shrinkage occur in the rayon yarn during dyeing, creating a crepe-like texture only on the back side where more rayon is exposed.
It looks like this. This is a photo of the back side when it's flipped up while wearing it.
You can clearly see that the rayon side on the back is undyed, and there's a bumpy texture like willow crepe fabric.
In other words, to summarize what I've explained so far...
It's a jacquard weave that meticulously controls and utilizes acetate and rayon yarns so that dyeing, pattern creation, and shrinkage occur simultaneously during the dyeing process after the fabric is woven.
It's a fabric created by repeatedly reverse-engineering what would happen during the dyeing process.
However, beyond the fabric's process, it's also an excellent shirt.
This is BLACK.
The floral pattern remains undyed in both colors, so the floral pattern itself is the same color.
Also, the parts that look like small dots are where the undyed rayon peeks through.
The silhouette has a very strong drape, due to the acetate and rayon blend.
However, it doesn't feel sloppy, which is often the case with shirts made from highly drapey materials.
While the stitching and interlining aren't so stiff as to make it rigid, parts that define the shirt's impression, such as the collar and cuffs, are finished with appropriate stiffness to prevent them from drooping.
This is D.BROWN.
Compared to BLACK, this one probably has more of an old-fashioned vibe.
While it's completely different from vintage items, I think it carries a unique atmosphere that wouldn't feel out of place if someone from half a century ago wore it.
Conversely, black might appear a bit more rugged.
Both are incredibly good, but personally, I'm leaning towards brown.
It's hard to convey in photos, but when worn, both sides of the hem appear slightly longer.
The hem cutting itself is straight, creating a box silhouette, but the drape of the fabric makes it appear this way.
I think this shirt can be comfortably worn until just before the peak of summer, so I actually think it's a good point that it sways like this when worn.
Since the bumpy, crepe-like texture on the back prevents stickiness, I think it would be incredibly comfortable in the summer.
I know it's hard to believe when we're in the middle of a brutal cold snap...
I think it's a floral shirt with a "one-of-a-kind" process and appearance, boasting an exceptional calmlence mood.
calmlence
PEAKED LAPEL SACK COAT
material _ cotton 71%,linen 20%,wool 6%,hemp 3%
color _ BLACK/BROWN
size _ 1,2,3
*Sizes 1 and 2 are sold out.
calmlence
TRIPLE PLEATED WIDE TAPERED
material _ cotton 71%,linen 20%,wool 6%,hemp 3%
color _ BLACK/BROWN
size _ 1,2,3
Including the previous blog post, all of calmlence's deliveries to our store consist of this set-up.
We've listed them on the online store starting today, but some customers who liked them after discussing them in store have already purchased them. The jacket is now only available in size 3, but I'd still like to introduce it because I personally thought it was the most amazing woven fabric from calmlence this season.
The style is a peaked lapel sack coat that has been available since the 2024 AW season, but what's particularly noteworthy, I believe, is the fabric.
Cotton 71%, Linen 20%, Wool 6%, Hemp 3%
Just looking at the blend ratio, it's super mysterious.
This fabric uses four types of materials, each differentiated down to the 1% unit.
Here's a close-up of the fabric.
Similar to the floral shirt I just showed, this is a random stripe pattern expressed in jacquard.
80-count double-ply cotton is set in the warp.
And for the weft, respectively:
・A kasuri-style yarn made from a blend of wool and hemp, wrapped with linen.
・40-count single-ply cotton.
・43-count double-ply linen.
are randomly woven in by a jacquard loom.
Each weft thread is random in material, thickness, twist, and pitch.
Mr. Kumagai developed it aiming for the texture of hand-woven fabrics found in old rugs and other interior textiles.
Its organic appearance, with a textured feel that truly looks like hand-woven cloth, makes the fabric seem alive.
I think it's a tremendously atmospheric textile, and the real thing is even more incredible than the photos.
Another astonishing thing when you see the actual product is how incredibly lightweight it is, more so than it appears.
The pants are light enough to wear comfortably even in summer.
Yet, it has a powerful and substantial feel that completely belies its lightness.
Faced with Japan's crazily hot and long summers of recent years, everyone involved in clothing is thinking about "how to get through it," developing and offering wonderful materials suitable for spring and summer.
Thanks to this, various options have emerged for summer, and I feel that summer clothing has diversified in recent years.
In that regard, this calmlence fabric is impeccable.
It's comfortable in summer, of course, and has a substantial feel that isn't too light when worn in spring or autumn.
If we extend the concept of seasons and consider May to October as summer, including the month before and after, that's at least 8 months perfectly within its range.
Clothes this original, perfectly adapted to modern seasons, and full of aura are simply the best, best, best.
I'm forcibly wearing size 3, which is not my correct size for the jacket, so please just get a feel for the atmosphere.
If you wear it in the correct size, matching the shoulder width, it would look billions of times cooler.
The peaked lapel type is also equipped with a hook at the front, so it can be worn fastened with the hook.
The hook is hand-stitched with meticulous care.
This random stripe, which is quite powerful as a fabric, becomes even more incredible when it's made into clothing.
This is evident in how the form emerges.
The "horizontal tension" in the arms of the jacket, and from the thighs to the hem of the triple pleated pants.
The side view of the jacket shows sharp lines on the arms thanks to the fabric's horizontal tension.
The pants, the TRIPLE PLEATED WIDE TAPERED, are the most glamorous and marvelous ever.
I think the form is incredibly lively.
As the name suggests, the front features three pleats folded to create a strong vertical flow in the fabric, and the contrast with the volume created by the tendency of the fabric to stretch horizontally is exquisite.
This is just my personal opinion, but I haven't seen many cool clothes with stripes.
What I mean by "cool" here is something well-made, atmospheric, and powerful, but
I think many striped clothes in the world end up being used as a "casual touch" to complement cool outfits.
Even though they weren't made to be a "casual touch," they somehow end up being used as one.
Starting a discussion about "what exactly is a casual touch in fashion" would get too complicated, so I'll omit it here...
However, when I saw calmlence's random stripe, I intuitively felt that it was an artistic fabric that completely transcended the concept of a stripe, not falling into that category at all.
Furthermore, wearing it deeply impressed and moved me.
The jacket is only available in size 3, and while the pants are available in full sizes, there aren't many. So I apologize for any inconvenience, but if you'd like, please experience this "extraordinary stripe" for yourself.