Hello.
I'm Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
The FUKUBORI ORDER EXHIBITION is finally just around the corner, starting tomorrow.
First, a note for everyone planning to visit us: due to the exhibition content, the parking spaces in our garage will not be available during the event period.
We have secured four parking spaces on the south side of our store, so please park there.
If those spaces are full, please use a nearby coin-operated parking lot.
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and appreciate your understanding.
Now, to today's main topic.
The "other option" I mentioned at the end of my last blog post.
In preparation for this event, I had many discussions with Mr. Kawahara.
About the activities of "Fuku wo Horu" (Digging for Clothes),
The core of "FUKUBORI",
Future vision,
And so on.
What I strongly felt from Mr. Kawahara during these discussions was his resolve and responsibility as someone who "destroys" valuable vintage clothing.
And his belief, from a pattern maker's perspective, in how to make the world of clothing more open.
Actually, for this event, Mr. Kawahara had even suggested creating a CASANOVA&CO-specific FUKUBORI using color instead of unbleached fabric.
However, precisely because I felt Mr. Kawahara's sentiments, I believed we shouldn't deviate on the point that "FUKUBORI must only be unbleached" this time.
That's where we arrived at paraffin processing for unbleached denim.
Paraffin processing, to put it very simply, is a process of impregnating fabric with wax.
This gives it water repellency, adds stiffness to the fabric, and allows for unique changes to be experienced.
However, this time, applying paraffin to denim was more about emphasizing the spiritual aspect.
That is, the spiritual aspect is a choice to more strongly express Mr. Kawahara's resolve, responsibility, and beliefs.
The denim that Mr. Kawahara disassembles is vintage, ranging from the 1940s at its oldest to the 1970s at its newest.
It goes without saying that the price of such denim has soared in today's market, and what largely influences the price within that is the fading—or rather, how much color remains.
Naturally, the darker the color, the higher the price.
If it were in unused, rigid condition with starch, it wouldn't be surprising if the price differed by orders of magnitude compared to a faded piece.
Of course, such prices are natural given the rarity, but when I personally resonated with Mr. Kawahara's perspective on "Fuku wo Horu" and "FUKUBORI" activities, I think I instinctively started to think the opposite way.
That is, I'd actively want to disassemble pieces that have been worn and faded or damaged, as that would make the "time" and "emotions" etched into the clothing more visible through repeated wear.
And when that is disassembled, that "time" and "emotions" are carefully extracted and reside in the FUKUBORI clothing.
In my previous blog post, I wrote about my idea that "while vintage wear connects to the past, FUKUBORI extracts its philosophy and connects it to the future." If this is true, then just as vintage denim from an era without distressing was originally rigid and stiff with starch, I believe that this very rigid, starched condition is the "0" starting point, the exact middle, when plotting past and future on a number line.
So, it wouldn't be bad to simply have unbleached denim in its rigid state, but I thought that "paraffin on unbleached denim" functions like a "0" despite appearing to be "0" but not quite, and despite being an addition through post-processing.
Because if this were indigo denim, it would fade intensely and simply be an addition.
I thought that precisely because it's "unbleached" denim, the paraffin processing works as a device to return it to "0" despite being an addition.
Also, another reason is that I just thought it would look super cool. (laughs)
This is overwhelmingly more important.
I don't think things that are conceptually rich but uncool or not wearable everyday will endure into the future.
Ultimately, it exceeded my imagination and landed in an unexpected way, so I'm relieved.
FUKUBORI
5 POCKET JEANS (TAPERED) PARAFFIN
color _ unbleached
size _ 1,2,3
FUKUBORI
TRACKER JACKET TYPE1 PARAFFIN
color _ unbleached
size _ 1,2,3
Here is the paraffin version.
Photos don't convey anything, do they? (laughs)
I knew this would happen.
My apologies.
However, if you look closely, the difference is quite clear.
The wax-infused and coated threads have significantly less fluff compared to those that have been one-washed from rigid, almost appearing as if they have a different twist count.
This tightness of the threads creates a good, characteristic denim look.
And above all, as you wear it repeatedly, the sticky stiffness of the paraffin becomes ingrained in the denim.
I had Mr. Kawahara make me a sample, so honestly I've only worn it for about 4 days, but I've done a lot of hard work in it, like cutting wood with a saw and busting out planks with a crowbar. (laughs)
This shape when taken off.
It's become like an imported brand that specializes in incredibly anatomical clothing.
Of course, it's not anatomically cut at all; it's a slim-fit denim based on the 505.
Personally, I think the paraffin treatment on this 505-based style was very good.
This creasing behind the knees, precisely because they are slim-fit.
If this were indigo and developed strong honeycomb fading, it would look too much like it's based on vintage! And if it were black, it would have an aggressive, older brother-like vibe, but FUKUBORI's unique unbleached color perfectly balances it out.
It looks like this when worn.
I am 178cm and 60kg, and I've been feeling great since I stopped drinking black coffee. I'm wearing size 1.
These super creased pants behind the knees... I felt a bit nostalgic, remembering wearing similar ones in the past.
FUKUBORI's version is overwhelmingly cooler, though.
Because it's paraffin-treated, areas that stretch will stretch with wear.
However, personally, I really like this "blown-out knee" look.
When I put my leg through, there's a feeling of it fitting around the knee; it's stiff but doesn't feel constricting.
The unique grid pattern of FOKUBORI provides a nice accent when rolled up.
Even if the hem is dirty, the blue line transforms the dirt into a mood.
Of course, washing is possible, but the paraffin will wash off with wear and laundering.
However, at that point, re-paraffining might be an option, acting as a device to bring it back to "0."
The shape is purely fundamentalist, so the hips are designed with moderate room, but the interesting thing about FUKUBORI is the good kind of imbalance created by the precision of the stitching.
When the fly or pocket openings are visible, the mood of the stitching instantly tightens up the look.
Unbleached denim tends to have a strong natural feel, and when it's also slim-fit, it can sometimes come across as a bit foppish, which I personally avoided. However, I think the combination of the stitching and paraffin treatment resulted in a really excellent outcome.
Although I don't have wearing photos for the trucker jacket, we have a sample at the store, so please feel free to try it on.
I've worn it for a few hours and "beaten it in" a bit to the human body, so I think it will be easy for you to imagine how it looks.
Also, although not pictured, the 501 type (straight fit) can also be made with paraffin.
Personally, I prefer the 505, but this is a matter of preference.
We also have a 501 sample available, so please give it a try.
And of course, denim can also be ordered without paraffin.
Please consider paraffin as just one option.
However, I believe those who like it will really like it.
There are some items that have changes from the samples, not just denim, so we will explain those in detail at the store.
Oh, I forgot to tell you something important.
Currently, Mr. Kawahara is scheduled to be at the store all day on weekends during the exhibition period.
His knowledge regarding "Fuku wo Horu" is immense, far beyond what we could cover, so please feel free to ask Mr. Kawahara anything.
We would also like to join in the discussions with all of you.
We sincerely look forward to your visit starting tomorrow.